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Ever since I started knitting I’ve wanted to make my own stockings. So when my friend Chantal asked me if I would make some stockings to pair with her tree skirt pattern, I jumped at the idea! As soon as Chantal showed me the stitch she was using, I knew I had to call the pattern The Snowbell Stocking. The little detail looks just like a delicate snowbell flower, and if you know me at all, you’ll know I’m a huge plant lover.
I designed this stocking with newer knitters in mind. It’s worked as a tube from the cuff down, and an afterthought heel is inserted at the end – there is a full tutorial in this blog post and in the downloadable PDF on Ravelry. Experienced sock knitters may wish to substitute the afterthought heel with a short row heel.
This is a great project to use up any scraps of super bulky yarn, as you don’t need much for the contrast colours, and you could even mix and match, and make your stocking truly unique. I used Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, but you can use any super bulky yarn your heart desires! In one of my samples I used Lion Brand Go For Faux Yarn to make a faux fur cuff on my stocking, and it looks adorable! I have a lot of Knitpicks Tuff Puff in my stash that I think I’ll make into some colourful stockings for the rest of the family. These stockings are fun, fast, and so easy to make!
Everyone likes their stockings a different size, and that’s why I designed this pattern with three different sizes, so you can make the size that’s right for your family!
Main Colour (MC): approx. 50 (106, 156) yards of any Super Bulky yarn
Contrast Colour (CC): approx. 50 (80, 106) yards of any Super Bulky yarn
Lion Brand Yarn ‘Wool-Ease Thick & Quick’ MC 1 (1, 2) skeins, CC 1 skein
Lion Brand Yarn ‘Go For Faux’ (used as part of CC on one sample)
You can use whatever super bulky yarn you want! Gauge isn’t super essential for this project (your stocking doesn’t need to fit!) so choose a yarn that suits you style and budget!
US Size 19 /15 mm double pointed needles OR 32” circulars for magic loop
US Size 15 /10 mm double pointed needles OR 32” circulars for magic loop
You can probably get away with using 16 inch circulars for the largest size, however you will need DPNs or longer needles to finish the heel and toe.
NOTIONS: 2 stitch markers (removable and two different colours are recommended), darning needle, scissors.
GAUGE: on SMALLER needles, 10 stitches x 12 rows = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch in the round. Note that meeting gauge is not essential for this pattern as long as you’re okay with the measurements being slightly different!
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: ~ 18 (22, 27) x 5 (7, 10) inches / 46 (56, 68) x 13 (18, 26) cm
CO – Cast on K – Knit P – Purl K2Tog – Knit 2 Together
PM – Place Marker SM – Slip Marker BOR – Beginning of Round
SSK – Slip, Slip, Knit: slip two stitches knitwise, and knit them together through the back loop.
Snowbell Stitch – Insert your right needle into the 3rd stitch down from the 2nd stitch on your left needle, wrap your yarn around the needle, and draw up a loop onto the right needle. K2. Draw up a loop from the same place you did previously. K2. Draw up a third loop from the same place.
A stitch pattern written in asterisks or brackets – ex. *K1, P1* – indicates a repeating pattern.
The pattern is written for the smallest size, with the numbers for the larger sizes in brackets. I recommend highlighting the size you are working. If no brackets are present, it means the row is worked the same for all sizes.
Using your larger needles (US 19/15mm) and CC, cast on 25 (33, 41) stitches using the long tail cast on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your cast on. PM for BOR.
Round 1: K all stitches
Round 2: P all stitches
Repeat rounds 1 + 2 an additional 5 times, or until cuff reaches desired length.
Switch to smaller needles (US 15/10mm) and MC
Rounds 1-5: Knit all stitches
Round 6: K3, Snowbell Stitch, *K4, Snowbell Stitch* repeat from * to * until last 2 stitches, K2
Round 7: K2, (K2Tog, K1) twice, K2Tog. *K3, (K2Tog, K1) twice, K2Tog* repeat from * to * until last 2 stitches, K2.
Rounds 8 – 10: Knit all stitches
Round 11: K7, *Snowbell Stitch, K4* repeat from * to * until last 2 stitches. You will now do one more Snowbell Stitch – you will have to go into the next round (2 stitches) to finish this stitch. I recommend leaving your BOR marker where it is and simply slipping it to your right needle mid-snowbell.
Round 12: K4, *(K2Tog, K1) twice, K2Tog, K3* repeat from * to * 1 (2, 3) more time(s). K2Tog, K1, K2Tog, K1, K2Tog. (You will also be working into the next round to finish this step.)
Double check that your BOR marker is in the right spot before continuing, so your snowbells line up.
Rounds 13 – 15: Knit all stitches
Round 16: Repeat Round 6
Round 17: Repeat Round 7
Round 18: Knit all stitches
Continue knitting all stitches until your stocking reaches approx 16 (19, 24) inches from the cast on edge.
Set Up Round: K11 (15, 19), K2Tog. PM. K12 (16, 20). 24 (32, 40) stitches remain.
Switch to CC
Round 1: K all stitches
Round 2: K1, SSK, K to 3 stitches before marker, K2Tog, K1. SM. K1, SSK, K to 3 stitches before BOR marker, K2Tog, K1.
Repeat rounds 1 – 2 until you have a total of 8 (12, 12) stitches remaining, or 4 (6, 6) on the top and bottom of the sock.
Cut your yarn leaving a 10 inch tail. Use kitchener stitch to sew up your toe.
You’ve made it this far, and there’s only one thing left to do: knit the heel! Your stocking should look something like this:
You’ve essentially made a tapered tube, and now we have to make a heel to finish it off. Don’t panic – the afterthought heel is really, really simple.
The next step is to determine where you want to place your heel. Lay your piece flat with the toe in the correct position. I recommend placing your heel about halfway between your cuff and your toe, but choose wherever feels right!
Once you’ve determined where you want to place your heel, you need to pick up some stitches. Get your needles ready – you can use long circulars for magic loop (my preference) or DPNs, whatever you’re more comfortable with. Make sure you’re using your US 15 (10mm) needles.
You want to make sure you can identify the right leg of each stitch, as you will only pick up that portion of the stitch – below I use a darning needle to demonstrate:
Pick up 12 (16, 20) stitches across the “top” of the heel by inserting your needle under the right leg of each stitch. Leave a row untouched directly underneath the row you just picked up. Then pick up 12 (16, 20) stitches for the “bottom” of the heel. Make sure you pick up the same stitches on both rows – you’ll need them to line up.
You should have a row of picked up stitches, a row of untouched stitches (they will look like ‘V’s), and then another row of picked up stitches.
Now you’re going to cut your knitting. No, you didn’t read that wrong. Get your scissors ready! Find the approximate middle of the ‘untouched’ row between your two rows of picked up stitches.
Identify the LEFT leg of this stitch, and give it a snip.
Carefully unravel the yarn across the row on either side, but leave one or two stitches intact at the end of each side. This prevents gaps from appearing between your heel and stocking! Tuck the ends into the stocking to be woven in later.
Using your CC, knit all stitches (joining to work in the round.)
From here, follow the same instructions you used to create the toe, until you have 12 stitches remaining (6 at the ‘top’ and 6 at the ‘bottom’ for all sizes.)
Break yarn, and use kitchener stitch to sew up the heel.
Weave in your ends, using the tails from the yarn we cut to sew up any gaps. And voila, you have an afterthought heel!
PS – you can apply the technique you learned here to any sock!
You can attach a loop to the top of your stocking by knitting an i-cord, crocheting a chain, or braiding some scrap yarn. I chose to pick up and knit 3 stitches on the back side of my cuff and work an i-cord until I had enough length to create a small loop. I then seamed the end of my i-cord into a loop shape by attaching it underneath where I started it.
Kitchener Stitch – Tutorial by VeryPink Knits
I-cord – Tutorial by VeryPink Knits
Selling finished items: selling items made with The Snowbell Stocking pattern is allowed! However, you may not use my photos/images to sell your items. As a courtesy, I ask that you give pattern credit to Woolfield Studio/Nicole Bracey. Makers supporting makers is what it’s all about! ♥
This pattern is property of Nicole Bracey/Woolfield and is protected by copyright law. It is illegal to redistribute, sell, or share the pattern in part or whole, electronically or physically.
Did you know there’s a MATCHING TREE SKIRT?!